Why Fit Is Everything in a Suit
You can spend a significant amount of money on a suit from a premium brand and still look underwhelming if the fit is off. Conversely, a moderately priced suit that fits your body correctly will always look sharp. Fit is the single most important variable in how a suit performs on you.
The Key Fit Points to Check
Shoulders
The shoulder seam should sit exactly at the edge of your shoulder — not hanging over the arm, and not pulling inward. This is the hardest element to alter post-purchase, so get it right from the outset. If the shoulders don't fit, walk away.
Chest
When buttoned, the jacket should lay flat across your chest without pulling. You should be able to fit your flat hand inside the buttoned jacket, but not much more. If it gaps open or bunches, it's too tight or too loose respectively.
Jacket Length
A traditional guideline is that the jacket should cover your backside and the bottom of the jacket should align roughly with the knuckles of your hand when arms are relaxed at your sides. Modern cuts sometimes run slightly shorter — just ensure it looks proportionate.
Sleeve Length
Jacket sleeves should allow approximately 1–1.5cm of your shirt cuff to show. This is adjustable by a tailor and is one of the simplest alterations to make.
Trouser Break
How your trouser leg sits on your shoe is called the break. Options range from no break (hem hits above the shoe — modern and clean) to a slight or half break (a small fold where the trouser meets the shoe — more traditional). Avoid a full break unless you're going for a deliberately vintage look.
Choosing the Right Fabric
| Fabric | Best Season | Key Properties |
|---|---|---|
| Wool (mid-weight) | Year-round | Breathable, drapes well, durable |
| Linen | Spring/Summer | Lightweight, breathable, creases easily |
| Wool-linen blend | Spring/Summer | Lighter than wool, fewer creases than linen |
| Flannel (heavy wool) | Autumn/Winter | Warm, rich texture, structured |
| Cotton/Chino | Spring/Casual | Relaxed, casual tone, easy care |
Off-the-Rack vs. Made-to-Measure
Most men buy off-the-rack suits, which is perfectly fine — provided you're willing to invest in alterations. Very few men's bodies align perfectly with a standard suit pattern, so budgeting for a tailor to adjust the waist suppression, sleeve length, and trouser hem is money well spent.
Made-to-measure suits are cut specifically to your measurements and offer a better foundation, though at a higher price point. They're worth considering for a suit you'll wear frequently or on significant occasions.
Colour and Pattern Choices
For a first or second suit, keep it simple:
- Navy: The most versatile suit colour — works for business, weddings, and smart social occasions.
- Charcoal grey: The second most versatile — slightly more formal than navy.
- Mid-grey: A little more casual and easier to mix with patterned shirts.
Once you own a navy and charcoal suit, you can explore patterns (subtle herringbone, pinstripe, or windowpane check) or bolder colours (olive, brown, burgundy) as your collection grows.
What to Ask a Tailor
When you take a new suit for alterations, ask about: taking in the waist, shortening the sleeves, tapering the trousers, and hemming the trouser leg to your preferred break. A good tailor will guide you — but knowing what you want going in speeds up the process considerably.